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From Russia with Love – Sporterizing a Mosin Nagant

Mike Whitlock brings 40 years of firearms experience to the Guru’s Classroom.

THE 1891 RUSSIAN “MOSIN-NAGANT” BOLT-ACTION RIFLE, IS CONTINUING TO EXPERIENCE A “SPORTERIZING REVIVAL” WITH AMERICAN SHOOTERS, VERY SIMILAR TO WHAT OCCURRED DECADES AGO WITH THE 1903 SPRINGFIELD, 1917 ENFIELD RIFLES (.30-06), & THE 1898 MAUSER (8MM), IN THE YEARS FOLLOWING THE CONCLUSION OF WW-1 I& WW-2 BEGINNING IN LATE 1946. THOUSANDS OF THESE RUGGED SURPLUS / BRING-HOME BOLT-ACTION RIFLES, WERE “SPORTERIZED” INTO SOME VERY BEAUTIFUL AND PRACTICAL  ALL-PURPOSE SPORTING, HUNTING, & EVEN BENCH-REST RIFLES OF VARIOUS DESCRIPTION.

THE MOSIN-NAGANT ARRIVED LATE, BUT SEEMS TO BE MAKING UP FOR LOST TIME AS THE “UGLIEST RIFLE” @ THE ANNUAL “DEBUTANT BALL” !!!!!!!!! HOWEVER, THE LETHALITY & EXTERNAL BALLISTICS OF IT’S 7.62 X 54R CARTRIDGE, IS NOT TOO FAR BEHIND THE ICONIC .30-06 SPRINGFIELD. THE FACT IS, HORNADY OFFERS BRAND-NEW MODERN FACTORY AMMO FOR GAME HARVESTING, BUT GOOD-OLD STEEL JACKETED SURPLUS AMMO, REMAINS A EXCELLENT ALTERNATIVE FOR INFORMAl PLINKING, TRAINING, OR VARMINT CONTROL WITH IT’S TYPICAL “FMJ” NON-EXPANDING BULLET.

OVER THE PAST 90 DAYS, I HAVE BEEN DOING A TOTAL “HOT-ROD” ON THIS RIFLE, FOR MY DAUGHTER’S FIANCE AS THEIR WEDDING IS SCHEDULED FOR AUGUST 2019. I THOUGHT THIS WOULD BE A NICE “WELCOME TO THE FAMILY, JAKE” FROM HIS #2 DADDY….”THE GURU” !!!!!  THE RIFLE PICTURED WAS MADE IN 1943 & HOPEFULLY THIS ARTICLE WILL INSPIRE YOU TO PERFORM SIMILAR WORK ON YOUR MOSIN. SO, WITHOUT FURTHER DELAY, HERE YOU GO.

One of many Russian snipers from World War II.

INSTALL A NEW TRIGGER:  EVEN WITH NEW SPRINGS & SOME PRECISION POLISHING, THE OEM TRIGGER MECHANISM STILL SUCKS !!!! IT WAS DESIGNED FOR A BATTEL-FIELD RIFLE, EASY TO MAINTAIN, DEPENDABLE, BUT NOT REALLY GREAT FOR PRECISION SHOOTING. RUSSIAN SOLDIERS TOLERATED IT, BUT THE WOMEN SNIPERS IN WW2, WERE ABLE TO PLACE SHOTS ON DISTANT “NAZI ZOMBIES” WITH REMARKABLE PRECISION !!!!!! THESE DAYS, HOWEVER, THAT OEM TRIGGER IS TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE TO THE MAJORITY OF MOSIN OWNERS. THE SOLUTION:  REPLACE THAT TRIGGER WITH A BETTER ONE !!!

This is the original M-N Trigger. Simple and reliable, but not much of a sporting trigger.

Timney 307 drop-in replacement trigger assembly. Note the safety, which overcomes one of the M-N’s major failings as a sporting rifle.

THE “TIMNEY #307” IS THE ONLY TRIGGER TO RECEIVE THE COVETED “GURU SEAL OF APPROVAL” & THAT I CAN TRULY ENDORSE !!!! SIMPLY REMOVE THE RETENTION PIN & UNSCREW THE FRONT ANCHOR SCREW. INSTALL THE TIMNEY UNIT & REPLACE THE FRONT SCREW & RETENTION PIN. SHOULD TAKE NO MORE THAN 10 MINUTES TO ACCOMPLISH THIS TASK !!! HOWEVER, WHAT WILL CONSUME SEVERAL HOURS OF YOUR TIME & CHALLENGE YOUR GUNSMITHING SKILL, IS TO OPEN THE INLETTING INSIDE THE STOCK WHERE THE NEW TRIGGER WILL BE LOCATED. THE ONLY STOCK I AM AWARE OF WHICH WILL NOT REQUIRE ANY CLOSE-FITTING, IS THE “ARCHANGEL” BRAND.

OPEN SIGHT BLADE NOTCH: THE ORIGINAL NOTCH IS A SHALLOW “V” SHAPE, WHICH IS HARD TO SEE & ALLOWS MINIMAL LIGHT TO SHOW AROUND THE SIDES OF THE FRONT POST SIGHT. USE A LIGHTLY OILED ROUND “CHAIN-SAW FILE” TO INCREASE BOTH THE DEPTH & WIDTH OF THE NOTCH. HOLD THE FILE AS STRAIGHT & LEVEL AS POSSIBLE AND USE GENTLE, BUT FIRM “FORWARD” STROKES OF THE FILE. FILE UNTIL THE BOTTOM OF THE NOTCH IS ROUND & THE WIDTH OF THE NOTCH IS THE DIAMETER OF THE FILE. POLISH THE NOTCH WITH SOME 320 GRIT METAL CLOTH & APPLY SEVERAL COATS OF COLD BLUE SOLUTION TO THE NOTCH & REAR OF THE BLADE.

SMOOTH SIGHT BASE RAILS (PIC #3): THE BOTTOM OF THE SIGHT BLADE ELEVATION ADJUSTMENT PIECE, SLIDES FORWARD/BACKWARDS ON THESE. A GENTLE FILING, SANDING, & POLISHING WILL ALLOW THE ELEVATION TO BE INCREASED / DECREASED VERY SMOOTHLY !!!!! AFTER POLISHING, APPLY SOME COLD-BLUE TO DARKEN THE AREA TO PREVENT ANY LIGHT GLARE FROM SUNLIGHT.

SMOOTH BOTTOM OF ELEVATION: THE BELLY OF THE ELEVATION ADJUSTMENT PIECE, NEEDS TO BE GENTLY STONED, SANDED, & POLISHED, AS THIS IS THE SURFACE WHICH MAKES CONTACT WITH THE SIGHT BASE RAILS (PIC #3).

Smooth the bottom of the elevator to make easier sight adjustments.

 

REAR SIGHT BLADE (PIC #6): POLISH THE BOTTOM OF THE FOLDING SIGHT BLADE, STARTING WITH 320 GRIT, WORK UP TO RED CROCUS CLOTH. THEN FINISH WITH SOME FLITZ METAL POLISH & HARD FELT POLISHING TIP. THIS WILL PERMIT THE ELEVATION MECHANISM TO SLIDE VERY SMOOTHLY BACK & FORTH ON THE FOLDING BLADE.

Polish the underside of the sight for smoother elevator travel.

Roll Pin Punches.

SIGHT BASE RETENTION PINS: REPLACE THE OEM “ROLL-PINS” WITH A SOLID, HARDENED STAINLESS PIN. DETERMINE THE DIAMETER OF ROD NEEDED & CUT OFF 2 PIECES 1.000″ LONG. GRIND THE LENTH TO ALMOST FLUSH & ROUND OFF THE ENDS OF THE PINS. IF THE PIN HOLES ARE SLIGHTLY OFF-CENTER, REDRILL THE HOLES, ALIGN BASE TO BARREL MOUNTING HOLES, LUBE PINS, & GENTLY TAP INTO THE SIGHT BASE. NOTE: WHEN REMOVING ROLL-PINS, YOU MUST USE “ROLL-PIN PUNCHES” !!!! CONVENTIONAL FLAT-TIPPED PUNCHES WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY….TRUST ME ON THIS ONE !!!!!!

INSTALL HEX-HEAD TRIGGER-GUARD / RECEIVER SCREWS:  THIS MOSIN &  WINCHESTER MODEL 70 / 670, USE A .250″ X 32 NF THREAD PATTERN ON THEIR RECEIVER / TRIGGER-GUARD SCREWS. YOU CAN EASILY PURCHASE THEM FROM YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE IN EITHER CARBON / STAINLESS MATERIAL. BROWNELLS (#661-000-057WB) ARE MADE FROM STAINLESS STEEL ONLY !!! MEASURE THE LENGTH OF THE “OEM” SLOTTED SCREWS AND GRIND THE NEW RECEIVER SCREWS TO THE SAME LENGTH.

FYI: DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THESE SCREWS UNTIL THE WOOD STOCK HAS BEEN PILLAR-BEDDED !!!! UNTIL THEN, CONTINUE TO TORQUE THE NEW SCREWS TO THE SAME SPECS, AS YOU DID WITH THE SLOTTED SCREWS, TO AVOID CRACKING THE STOCK. 

Brownell’s crowning tool

RECROWN THE MUZZLE (PIC #5): RECUTTING THE MUZZLE CROWN @ 45 DEGREES, LAPPING WITH 1000 GRIT COMPOUND SMEARED ON A BRASS LAPPING TOOL, & HAND-POLISHING TO A SPARKLING FINISH, WILL DO WONDERS TO REDUCE THE SIZE OF YOUR SHOT-GROUP !!!! PURCHASE THE 45 DEGREE HAND-POWERED CUTTING TOOL & A .308″ PILOT BRASS / STEEL GUIDE ROD TO KEEP THE CUTTER CENTERED INSIDE THE BORE (AVAILABLE FROM BROWNELL’S).

 

Advanced Technologies Mosin Nagant stock.

“ADVANCED TECHNOLOGIES” IS THE MAKER OF THAT STOCK. IT SELLS @ MIDWAY-USA. EVEN WITH THAT .500″ TUBING THE BOTTOM OF THE BARREL IS STILL REFUSES TO TOUCH THE TUBING !!!! HOWEVER, DOING WHAT I DID SUBSTANTIALLY REDUCED THE INTERNAL VOLUME & THUS REDUCES THE AMOUNT OF BEDDING COMPOUND REQUIRED !!!! FILLING THE FOREARM WITH STEEL AIR-RIFLE SHOT / .177″ B-B’S AND COVERING IT WITH A LAYER OF EPOXY WOULD ACCOMPLISH THE SAME THING. HOWEVER, THE WEIGHT OF THE STEEL SHOT MIGHT MAKE THE STOCK BALANCE > TOWARD THE MUZZLE ???? HAVE NEVER COMPARED THE WEIGHT OF TUBING VS. B-B’S SO I AM STRICTLY GUESSING.  USING THE TUBING IN THE FOREARM, WAS LIKE SPLINTING A FX. BONE. THE “SPLINT” IS VERY STRONG & STIFF BUT WEIGHS A LOT < THAN IF PIECES OF SOLID ROD STOCK WERE USED !!!!!!!

The Guru added piping to stiffen the forearm and fill in some of the excess volume of the stock channel.

The final smoothed barrel channel.

 

BEDDING THE REAR RECEIVER TANG: IF YOU PLAN TO EPOXY BED THE RECEIVER IN THE STOCK (REMOVE THE TRIGGER…DUH !!!!) AND FILE THIS AREA USING A FINE TOOTH BASTARD FILE. DON’T TRY TO REMOVE ALL THE MACHINE MARKS, BUT SIMPLY TO KNOCK-OFF THE TOP OF THE MARKS. SAND WITH 320 GRIT & STOP AT RED CROCUS. KEEP THE CONTACT SURFACE AS FLAT & EVEN ON BOTH SIDES AS POSSIBLE !!!! NOT ONLY WILL IT MAKE YOUR BEDDING WORK LOOK BETTER, BUT ALSO ELIMINATES THE POSSIBILITY OF “MECHANICALLY LOCKING” THE STEEL TO THE EPOXY !!!!

Hollow pistol grip filled to dampen noise.

SEE THE HOLLOW IN THIS RIFLE STOCK, THAT WAS COVERED BY THE GRIP CAP !!!! NEEDED TO FILL TO DEADEN THE SOUND, SO I NEEDED SOMETHING VERY LIGHT WEIGHT. DID NOT HAVE ANY EXPANDABLE FOAM INSULATION TO MAKE THE FILL, SO I MADE SOME OF MY OWN !!!!!  RECIPE:  CRUSHED WALNUT SHELL & THE ORIGINAL “GORILLA GLUE EXPANDABLE ADHESIVE”. IT IS FILLING THAT HOLE & WHEN IT IS DONE, WILL FILE & SAND IT FLUSH TO THE EDGE OF THE HOLE. GOT THE DRYWALL SCREW & PACKED IT FULL OF PASTE FLOOR WAX. WHEN THE FOAM HAS HARDENED, WILL REMOVE THE SCREW, FLUSH-FIT TO STOCK, & REPLACE THE GRIP CAP—-DONE !!!!!!!

CHEAP $$$$$ & USED MATERIALS THAT ARE COMMON IN THE STORE & IN MY SHOP—REDNECK ENGINEERING AT IT’S FINEST !!!!!!!

AFTER THE MIX HAD EXPANDED & CURED ABOUT 2 HRS. THE FOAM HAD RISEN ABOUT 2″ ABOVE THE EDGE OF THE HOLE & WAS REASONABLY FIRM TO THE TOUCH. REMOVED THE SCREW HOLE PLUG & USED A FINE-CUT HACKSAW BLADE TO CUT THE FOAM AS NEAR FLUSH AS POSSIBLE. THEN USED A 1/4″ WOOD DOWEL & GENTLY REPACKED EVERYTHING FIRMLY BACK INTO THE HOLE. FINISHED WITH A FINE TOOTH FLAT MILL FILE & THEN SOME 320 GR. SANDPAPER FOR GENTLY SANDING.

 

GENTLY INSERTED THE SCREW HOLE PLUG & THEN SET THE STOCK OUTSIDE IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT, TO FINISH THE CURING PROCESS. WHEN IT HAS REACHED THE “NO-SMELL” CURING STAGE, THE BLACK GRIP CAP WILL BE REPLACED. SO, WHAT DO YOU THINK OF MY METHOD OF “HOLE PLUGGING / FILLING” TO QUIETEN DOWN THIS HOLLOW STOCK ???? PERSONALLY, I AM VERY PLEASED WITH THE RESULT !!!!!!!!!

BEDDING PILLARS: IF YOU INSTALL A TIMNEY TRIGGER, YOU WILL NEED TO ORDER A SET OF BEDDING PILLARS FROM “ROCK SOLID INDUSTRIES”, WHICH HAVE A SLOT MILLED INTO THE REAR TUBE, TO PERMIT THE TRIGGER DIMENSIONS TO INSTALL CORRECTLY

. IF YOU DECIDE NOT TO INSTALL THE TIMNEY TRIGGER, THEN STANDARD .375″ DIAMETER STAINLESS TUBING WILL DO QUIET WELL !!!!!  I CUSTOM MAKE ALL MY BEDDING PILLARS FROM 3/8″ X .035″ SEAMLESS, HIGH-PRESSURE STAINLESS TUBING & GRIND THEM TO THE LENGTH REQUIRED.  

Bedding pillar in place but not yet bedded.

BEDDING COMPOUNDS: THERE A MANY ON THE MARKET & I HAVE TRIED MOST OF THEM. HOWEVER, I KEEP RETURNING TO “BROWNELL’S ACCRA-GEL” OR THE “STOCKY’S BEDDING GEL”. THEY ARE BOTH NYLON-BASED (NO FIBERGLASS ANYMORE !!!”) AND MIX 50/50 WITH THE RESIN & HARDNER. GUNSMITH’S NO LONGER “GLASS BED”, WE “EPOXY & PILLAR-BED.”

WHEN BEDDING BOLT-ACTION RIFLES, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BED “EVERYTHING” AT THE SAME TIME !!!!! IF YOU DO THIS DUMB-ASS STUNT, I DON’T WANT TO HEAR / READ ANY BITCHING, COMPLAINING, OR WHINING FROM YOU. DO EACH OF THE FOLLOWING STEPS, ONE AT A TIME & DO NOT RUSH THE NEXT STEP, UNTIL THE EPOXY HAS CURED AT LEAST 24 HRS. FOR EACH STEP. YES, IT DOES CONSUME MORE TIME, BUT THE FUNCTIONAL ENHANCEMENT, COSMETICS, & SMALLER SHOT GROUPS WILL MAKE YOU SO GLAD YOU “LISTENED TO THE GURU !!!!!”

#1—DRILL, FIT, & INSTALL RECEIVER BEDDING PILLARS.

#2—BED THE MAGAZINE FLOOR PLATE, TRIGGER GUARD, ETC. ANY FURNITURE THAT FITS ON THE BOTTOM OF THE STOCK. 

#3—BED THE RECEIVER & REAR TANG SUPPORT.

#4—BED RECOIL LUG, CHAMBER, & BARREL INSIDE THE STOCK CHANNEL. 

BEDDING THE REAR RECEIVER TANG: IF YOU PLAN TO EPOXY BED THE RECEIVER IN THE STOCK (REMOVE THE TRIGGER…DUH !!!!) AND FILE THIS AREA USING A FINE TOOTH BASTARD FILE. DON’T TRY TO REMOVE ALL THE MACHINE MARKS, BUT SIMPLY TO KNOCK-OFF THE TOP OF THE MARKS. SAND WITH 320 GRIT & STOP AT RED CROCUS. KEEP THE CONTACT SURFACE AS FLAT & EVEN ON BOTH SIDES AS POSSIBLE !!!! NOT ONLY WILL IT MAKE YOUR BEDDING WORK LOOK BETTER, BUT ALSO ELIMINATES THE POSSIBILITY OF “MECHANICALLY LOCKING” THE STEEL TO THE EPOXY !!!!

The smoothed and polished tang area. Note that the trigger was returned to its location after filing to facilitate stock fit.

BOTTOM OF THE RECEIVER: BASICALLY DOING THE SAME ON THE BOTTOM RECEIVER RAILS & THE FRONT TANG SUPPORT PAD, AS YOU DID ON THE REAR SUPPORT TANG. FILE GENTLY, SAND WITH PROGRESSIVELY FINER GRITS OF PAPER, & KEEPING THE FLAT SURFACES “FLAT” !!!!! BEDDING WILL LOOK BETTER & THE STEEL WILL RELEASE FROM THE EPOXY EASIER.

NOTE: THE LARGE OPEN AREA ON THE BOTTOM OF THE RECEIVER, WILL BE CAREFULLY COVERED WITH 1 LAYER OF MASKING TAPE, TO KEEP THE EPOXY FROM MIGRATING INSIDE THE RECEIVER. DO NOT TAPE OVER THE SUPPORT PAD WHERE THE POINTER IS TOUCHING. 

FRONT RECOIL LUG (PIC #10): THE LUG IS “PYRAMID” SHAPED & NEEDS TO BE SMOOTH ON ALL 4 SIDES, AS WELL AS THE BOTTOM WHERE THE FRONT RECEIVER SCREW THREADS IN. REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS ON ALL 4 SIDES & BOTTOM OF THE LUG. COVER THE SIDES AS INSTRUCTED ON #8 & 9. COVER THE FRONT & SIDES WITH 1 LAYER OF MASKING TAPE, BUT DO NOT TAPE THE BOTTOM & REAR FLATS, AS YOU WANT THOSE TO BE IN DIRECT CONTACT WITH THE EPOXY COMPOUND. MAKE DAMN MAKING SURE THE SIDES & BOTTOM OF THE LUG ARE KEPT FLAT & POLISHED GENTLY TO A BRIGHT FINISH. THIS WILL INSURE THE RELEASE FROM THE BEDDING EPOXY WILL BE EASY & ZERO CHANCE OF “MECHANICAL LOCK-UP” !!!!!!!

FRONT RECOIL LUG: THE LUG IS “PYRAMID” SHAPED & NEEDS TO BE SMOOTH ON ALL 4 SIDES, AS WELL AS THE BOTTOM WHERE THE FRONT RECEIVER SCREW THREADS IN. REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS ON ALL 4 SIDES & BOTTOM OF THE LUG. COVER THE SIDES AS INSTRUCTED ON #8 & 9. COVER THE FRONT & SIDES WITH 1 LAYER OF MASKING TAPE, BUT DO NOT TAPE THE BOTTOM & REAR FLATS, AS YOU WANT THOSE TO BE IN DIRECT CONTACT WITH THE EPOXY COMPOUND. MAKE DAMN MAKING SURE THE SIDES & BOTTOM OF THE LUG ARE KEPT FLAT & POLISHED GENTLY TO A BRIGHT FINISH. THIS WILL INSURE THE RELEASE FROM THE BEDDING EPOXY WILL BE EASY & ZERO CHANCE OF “MECHANICAL LOCK-UP” !!!!!!!

NOTE: THE TANG, BOTTOM OF THE RECEIVER AND RECOIL LUG ARE WHERE THE BEDDING RELEASE AGENT MUST BE APPLIED !!!!!

PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE AREAS NOT COVERED WITH MASKING TAPE. THOSE ARE THE AREAS YOU WANT DIRECT CONTACT WITH THE BEDDING COMPOUND. THE TAPE IS THERE TO PROVIDE JUST A SMIDGE OF RELIEF. THE ENTIRE BARRELED ACTION IS COVERED WITH 2 THIN LAYERS OF PASTE WAX, ALLOWED TO DRY, & THEN BUFFED OFF WITH COTTON TOWEL.

Note the taped areas to set a standoff distance and protect the metal from the bedding compound. The exposed metal requires a contact fit and must b coated with a release agent to keep it from bonding with the bedding material.

FLAT ON RECEIVER BOTTOM, JUST AHEAD OF THE MAG RECEIVER OPEN SLOT—NOTICE THE SLOT IS COVERED BY 1 LAYER OF MASKING TAPE, TO KEEP THE EPOXY OUT OF THE INSIDE OF THE RECEIVER !!!! THE TAPE IS .002″ THICK & PROVIDES ENOUGH CLEARANCE TO ALLOW THE RECEIVER TO “EASY IN & EASY OUT” OF THE STOCK—-TOTALLY STRESS FREE !!!!!!!!!

THE FRONT, TOP, & SIDES OF THE LUG ARE COVERED WITH 1 LAYER OF TAPE. REASON:  “EASY IN & EASY OUT !!!!”——STRESS-FREE BEDDING.  

CHAMBER NEEDS TO BE IN 100% CONTACT WITH THE BEDDING, TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE BARREL. 

BARREL DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF THE CHAMBER, IS COVERED WITH 1 LAYER OF 2″ BEDDING TAPE / PIPE WRAP BURIAL TAPE

(GET MINE @ ACE HARDWARE, LOWES HOME CENTER, OR HOME DEPOT). TAPE IS .010″ THICK & ALSO PASTE WAXED. THIS TAPE ONCE PEELED OFF, WILL PERMIT THE BARREL TO “FREE-FLOAT” .010″ ABOVE THE BEDDING.

Stockmakers hand screws make the task easier.

FROM THE MIND OF “THE GURU” !!!!!!! I USE “RECEIVER ALIGNMENT PINS” TO KEEP THE RECEIVER FROM TWISTING INSIDE THE STOCK. GOT ONE SCREWED INSIDE THE REAR TANG HOLE ALSO !!!!!! THE PIN WAS WAXED & THE EPOXY WILL MOLD ITSELF AROUND THE DIAMETER OF THE PIN WHEN CURED. HOWEVER, THIS CREATES ANOTHER PROBLEM…THE THREADED RECEIVER SCREW WILL BE “BOUND-UP” WHEN IT TRIES TO GO THROUGH THE HARDENED EPOXY !!!!!!!—-BUMMER, BECAUSE IT CREATES A POTENTIAL “STRESS POINT” & THAT’S NO GOOD !!!!!!!!

SO WE NEED JUST A SMIDGE OF RELIEF BETWEEN THE PIN & EPOXY, TO PERMIT THE SCREW THREADS EASY ENTRY. NOW HOW DO WE DO THAT ???? A FEW LAYERS OF WAXED TAPE WOULD DO THE TRICK, BUT “THE FERTILE MIND OF THE GURU” CAME UP WITH A “MO-BETTA PLAN FO-SHO” SURE. WHAT YOU SEE IN THIS PIC IS A PIECE OF A COMMON “PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW” WHICH HAS AN I-D JUST BARELY .001″ LARGER THAN THE PIN & WAX IS APPLIED OVER THE DRINKING STRAW. WHEN FULLY CURED, THE STRAW OVER THE ALIGNMENT PIN CREATES THE PERFECT DIAMETER HOLE FOR THE RECEIVER SCREW TO PASS THROUGH, SNUG DOWN & NO STRESS ON THE RECEIVER !!!!!!!!!!!

Stockmaker’s Handscrews.

NOTE: THESE STAINLESS ALIGNMENT PINS ARE THREADED TO SPECIFIC RIFLES & ARE AVAILABLE FROM BROWNELLS. FYI: THE ALIGNMENT PINS & RECEIVER SCREWS FOR THE WIN MODEL 70 & MOSIN-NAGANT ARE EXACTLY THE SAME !!!!!!!!!

BEGINNING TO UNDERSTAND “GURU’S PROCESS” ???? DOES NOT MATTER WHAT BRAND OR CARTRIDGE THE B/A FIRES. THE BEDDING PROCEDURE IS BASICALLY THE SAME FOR EVERYONE…SOME DIFFERENCES, BUT VERY MINOR !!!!!!!

The newly bedded stock is ready for final finishing.

The bedded rifle curing in the Texas sun.

Mike Whitlock brings 40 years of firearms experience to the Guru’s Classroom.